The stories I heard of this place before I came. The festivals, raves, parties, drugs, beaches, philosophy and people were all images made in my head from stories of other people. I was excited to arrive in the hippy historical previous Portuguese colony. I headed to Vagator, the supposed party capital of Goa.
The streets were quiet, the restaurants were empty, and the people were anxious to get you in their hotels. It wasn't the Goa I had imagined. I soon learned the 5 biggest clubs had been shut because of fear of terrorism, all music had to be turned off by 10 o'clock, and there were to be no large social gatherings on the beaches.
1-0 terrorists
Because of the restrictions and the red alerts posted by certain governments Anjuna beach, the 2nd most popular hang out was dead. I walked past 50 empty restaurants, 20 shut bars, and an ugly mess of bamboo poles that used to be the biggest market in Goa.
2-0 terrorists
Frustrated and annoyed I moved to the far north, Arambal, for another attempt at finding the real Goa spirit. Arambols beach was ugly and the toxic black water that flowed into the sea from the village didn't help anything either. Although the vibe was a little better the only thing to do after 10 was watch a video, not what I came to Goa to do!
3-0 Terrorists
My last night I went back to my hotel bored, lonely, and ready to change my plans. That's when I met the Nepali guys.....
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Hampi
Hampi is like a scene out of a Mars movie. First of all they have these half-demolished, half-decaying, half standing up temples are sprinkled around the various hills. Next the hills are covered with these red rocks. It is like the Gods played marbles with these huge stones and forgot to clean up after. Some pile on top of each other to make these huge mountains, others sit alone in a rice field.
The village itself was small and when I arrived it was (unluckily) a festival. Hampis' reputation as a quiet place to relax was ruined. Thousands of people gathered at the temple to worship an elephant, the various cows that parade around like kings, and a picture on a wall that I'm never allowed in too see. The temple floor glistened with coconut oil and garbage piled high beside the garbage cans. In seems that there is a festival in India everyday. All are chaotic, loud, noisy, and somewhat annoying. One the other side you can see many interesting things like men sticking swords through their cheeks, men making cobras dance, men dressed like clowns begging for money, and a lot of old, wrinkled, karma beggars.
If you ever do get to Hampi, get across the river. There we stayed in a secluded hut in a distant rice field. All the huts surrounded a circular restaurant where everyone sat on the ground and talked. The palm trees whistled, the monkeys howled, and the people relaxed. Hampi is a place to be seen and done.
The village itself was small and when I arrived it was (unluckily) a festival. Hampis' reputation as a quiet place to relax was ruined. Thousands of people gathered at the temple to worship an elephant, the various cows that parade around like kings, and a picture on a wall that I'm never allowed in too see. The temple floor glistened with coconut oil and garbage piled high beside the garbage cans. In seems that there is a festival in India everyday. All are chaotic, loud, noisy, and somewhat annoying. One the other side you can see many interesting things like men sticking swords through their cheeks, men making cobras dance, men dressed like clowns begging for money, and a lot of old, wrinkled, karma beggars.
If you ever do get to Hampi, get across the river. There we stayed in a secluded hut in a distant rice field. All the huts surrounded a circular restaurant where everyone sat on the ground and talked. The palm trees whistled, the monkeys howled, and the people relaxed. Hampi is a place to be seen and done.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Afternoon Poo
I sat there admiring the sunset, it was beautiful. It was the first time in my life I was able to see the sunrise and sunset over the same sea. But that wasn't it, there was another first time to have.
Kanyakumari is a famous pilgrim site, like thousands of other cities in India. They wear black skirts and tribal necklaces, these heavy bearded men. Usually they act like the peasants of China and most of them can't speak English. They're nice guys though. They always smile, sometimes stare. They do more than pray piously, they poo almost as religiously as well.
The sky had just turned purple and I sat at the seashore watching the Arabian sea smash against the black rocks. It was peaceful.
About 15 of them started walking down the hill, all smiling secretly behind their bushy beards. They looked at me kind of awkwardly first; I wasn't sure what it meant. The resolved to continue their business- a little bit further down.
I got the point when I saw one man that was falling behind lift his robe - it was poop time.
Sure enough, at the same time, they all lifted their robes, almost in rows, squated down, and started to poo.
To this day I still don't know how they can time it so perfectly, but it was a sight to see, that afternoon poo.
Theres a first time for everything.
Kanyakumari is a famous pilgrim site, like thousands of other cities in India. They wear black skirts and tribal necklaces, these heavy bearded men. Usually they act like the peasants of China and most of them can't speak English. They're nice guys though. They always smile, sometimes stare. They do more than pray piously, they poo almost as religiously as well.
The sky had just turned purple and I sat at the seashore watching the Arabian sea smash against the black rocks. It was peaceful.
About 15 of them started walking down the hill, all smiling secretly behind their bushy beards. They looked at me kind of awkwardly first; I wasn't sure what it meant. The resolved to continue their business- a little bit further down.
I got the point when I saw one man that was falling behind lift his robe - it was poop time.
Sure enough, at the same time, they all lifted their robes, almost in rows, squated down, and started to poo.
To this day I still don't know how they can time it so perfectly, but it was a sight to see, that afternoon poo.
Theres a first time for everything.
Saturday Night
Its Saturday night. Im in Bangalore, one of India's biggest cities and the IT capital of the world.
You may ask, why are you in an internet cafe?
I have a lame answer: Im in India
I came here to party. The books said that the nightlife rocks. Well my book is old. And the nightlife sucks. Restrictions have banned all music after 11:30. Worse yet, you cant get into any clubs unless your accompanies by a female chaperon.
So here I am. In this very lively Internet cafe. High pitch screams of just hitting puberty boys erupt all around me. They speak in Inglish.
"Kick his ass!"
"I shot him down!"
They are all so excited.
Im here with my beer. Alone in the city. Im optomistic though-who knows whos going to sit down beside me.
hahaha! You should here these guys talk.
It could be worse I guess.
You may ask, why are you in an internet cafe?
I have a lame answer: Im in India
I came here to party. The books said that the nightlife rocks. Well my book is old. And the nightlife sucks. Restrictions have banned all music after 11:30. Worse yet, you cant get into any clubs unless your accompanies by a female chaperon.
So here I am. In this very lively Internet cafe. High pitch screams of just hitting puberty boys erupt all around me. They speak in Inglish.
"Kick his ass!"
"I shot him down!"
They are all so excited.
Im here with my beer. Alone in the city. Im optomistic though-who knows whos going to sit down beside me.
hahaha! You should here these guys talk.
It could be worse I guess.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
The Elephant and the Elderly
Pondicherry, India
A city that Lonely planet said was ' a delightful city with beautiful pockets of French architecture' turned out to be just another Indian city - except more expensive.
I arrived at 1:00am and was at the rickshaw drivers mercy. I bargained one down to a reasonable price. After we were zooming through the quiet streets I realized why his price was half that of others.
"So, Wherez you go!" He spat out.
"I told you, In, ter, na, tion, al, Guest House"
I could smell the booze not only on his breath but all over the rickshaw.
"No rooms!"
"Just take me there and I'll find out. " Another one of those damn drivers trying to steal my money!
We arrived at the International Guest House and sure enough, there were no rooms. I knocked on another 10 hotels closed doors before I gave up.
"You can sweep in my rickshaw.." He offered.
"Um," it was actually good idea and I probably would of if he wasn't drunk. "I'll pass tonight, thanks though."
So he drove off and I was left on my own to fend off the angry dogs that patrol every Indian street.
I walked and knocked and walked and knocked and after two hours finally managed to convince a guy to let me sleep on the hotel lobby floor for 1 USD.
The morning was better. I found myself a room, ate some breakfast, and rented a bike.
Pondicherry was not the 'Paris of the East' I expected. The city had loud, dirty, and stinky areas like most Indian cities; but other than a few retired, faded buildings, there wasn't much to see.
I headed for the temples since I noticed that the shrines are much different here in the South. They have these 'gopurams' at the entrance. They are tall, blue, pyramid like structures that are lined with animals, gods, and humans. They are so colorful and eye catching one has to stop and admire them.
While searching the streets I came across a big gathering of people. Naturally I walked towards the group to see what everyone was gawking at. I didn't need to walk long to see the gigantic elephant presiding at the front of the temple. The owner sat contently beside the elephant and occasionally yelled orders at him when he tried to steal someones sari with his long trunk. Pious pilgrims would do a small bow before the elephant, offer some food, and then wait. The elephant would accept the food, eat it, and then bless the pilgrim by tapping him or her on the head with his trunk.
I watched this procession take place for more than thirty minutes. The pilgrims offered oranges, bananas, coconut and bails of grass for the elephant, as well as a good 'prayer donation' to the master.
After watching for a while I continued past the elephant about 20 meters when I saw a pitiful row of bewildered, crazed, and bony senior citizens. They all looked to be homeless. They dressed in dirty rags and the hair they had left stuck in the air like they had just been hit by lighting. Their eyes were glossed a pearl grey and they looked lost in the world. They imitated the elephant - one hand out, open palm, hand to mouth, open mouth - while moaning something unrecognizable.
It made me shiver. I gave an orange to a lady. I reached in my bag and found a couple coins to give to a man. I looked back at the lady and the orange was gone and she was looking at me like she had never seen me before - one hand out, open palm, hand to mouth, open mouth.
I walked a bit past them a took a seat to observe.
It was disgusting actually. All of it.
A lot of people there preferred to give money or food to a captured elephant in return for a blessing than to the poor.
The people who did give to the elderly were given nothing in return, not even a thank you. The poor showed how unappreciative they were by not even acknowledging the person who gave.
One thing did come out on top. The Shrine.
All the pilgrims, the ones who gave to the elephant, and the ones who gave to the poor, all headed to the temple to give some more.
It made me think.
If Christians gave 10% of their wage to an orphanage instead of the Church would the world be a better place?
If the Hindus gave to their bills to an NGO instead of an elephant would the world be a better place?
If Buddhists threw their coins into a charity box instead of a statue would the world be a better place?
Its a fact that you need money to help the poor and make the world a better place.
Who ever said you needed money to pray to God to make the world a better place?
A city that Lonely planet said was ' a delightful city with beautiful pockets of French architecture' turned out to be just another Indian city - except more expensive.
I arrived at 1:00am and was at the rickshaw drivers mercy. I bargained one down to a reasonable price. After we were zooming through the quiet streets I realized why his price was half that of others.
"So, Wherez you go!" He spat out.
"I told you, In, ter, na, tion, al, Guest House"
I could smell the booze not only on his breath but all over the rickshaw.
"No rooms!"
"Just take me there and I'll find out. " Another one of those damn drivers trying to steal my money!
We arrived at the International Guest House and sure enough, there were no rooms. I knocked on another 10 hotels closed doors before I gave up.
"You can sweep in my rickshaw.." He offered.
"Um," it was actually good idea and I probably would of if he wasn't drunk. "I'll pass tonight, thanks though."
So he drove off and I was left on my own to fend off the angry dogs that patrol every Indian street.
I walked and knocked and walked and knocked and after two hours finally managed to convince a guy to let me sleep on the hotel lobby floor for 1 USD.
The morning was better. I found myself a room, ate some breakfast, and rented a bike.
Pondicherry was not the 'Paris of the East' I expected. The city had loud, dirty, and stinky areas like most Indian cities; but other than a few retired, faded buildings, there wasn't much to see.
I headed for the temples since I noticed that the shrines are much different here in the South. They have these 'gopurams' at the entrance. They are tall, blue, pyramid like structures that are lined with animals, gods, and humans. They are so colorful and eye catching one has to stop and admire them.
While searching the streets I came across a big gathering of people. Naturally I walked towards the group to see what everyone was gawking at. I didn't need to walk long to see the gigantic elephant presiding at the front of the temple. The owner sat contently beside the elephant and occasionally yelled orders at him when he tried to steal someones sari with his long trunk. Pious pilgrims would do a small bow before the elephant, offer some food, and then wait. The elephant would accept the food, eat it, and then bless the pilgrim by tapping him or her on the head with his trunk.
I watched this procession take place for more than thirty minutes. The pilgrims offered oranges, bananas, coconut and bails of grass for the elephant, as well as a good 'prayer donation' to the master.
After watching for a while I continued past the elephant about 20 meters when I saw a pitiful row of bewildered, crazed, and bony senior citizens. They all looked to be homeless. They dressed in dirty rags and the hair they had left stuck in the air like they had just been hit by lighting. Their eyes were glossed a pearl grey and they looked lost in the world. They imitated the elephant - one hand out, open palm, hand to mouth, open mouth - while moaning something unrecognizable.
It made me shiver. I gave an orange to a lady. I reached in my bag and found a couple coins to give to a man. I looked back at the lady and the orange was gone and she was looking at me like she had never seen me before - one hand out, open palm, hand to mouth, open mouth.
I walked a bit past them a took a seat to observe.
It was disgusting actually. All of it.
A lot of people there preferred to give money or food to a captured elephant in return for a blessing than to the poor.
The people who did give to the elderly were given nothing in return, not even a thank you. The poor showed how unappreciative they were by not even acknowledging the person who gave.
One thing did come out on top. The Shrine.
All the pilgrims, the ones who gave to the elephant, and the ones who gave to the poor, all headed to the temple to give some more.
It made me think.
If Christians gave 10% of their wage to an orphanage instead of the Church would the world be a better place?
If the Hindus gave to their bills to an NGO instead of an elephant would the world be a better place?
If Buddhists threw their coins into a charity box instead of a statue would the world be a better place?
Its a fact that you need money to help the poor and make the world a better place.
Who ever said you needed money to pray to God to make the world a better place?
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Watch where you sit!
Place: On the bus
Time: 7:45 PM
Who: Me and a large woman wearing a yellow sari
Why: I was on my way to the bus station
"27 B, 27 B, where is the damn 27 B!"
Every time a bus would stop a cloud of exhaust would fill the dark air. Bus after bus ploughed through the streets.
"Excuse me sir," I yelled while backpack bumping a man. "Do you know where bus 27 B is?"
He wobbled his head left to right three times.
"Yes?"
He wobbled again.
"No?"
One more wobble.
I imitated his wobble with arched eye-brows. He also arched his eye-brows and did a quick wobble.
"27B"
He wobbled again, but this time with emphasis towards the right.
I wobbled a thank you and started walking towards where he directed his wobble.
"Why don't they light these streets!" I said to myself after stepping in something squishy. Before I had time to investigate fully what I had just stepped in 27B pulled up beside me.
I jumped on, fell back, and jumped on again. I felt unbalanced with all the weight on me. I had a bulging blue backpack hanging off my back, a black smaller backpack strapped to my front, and a red bag with books in my right hand.
The bus was packed with people, but just my luck, a man jumped up just as I got on. I threw the heavy backpack of my back into the aisle and managed to squeeze in tightly beside a heavy woman with a yellow sari. The bus pulled off and we were on our way.
After getting my bag in place and taking off my other bags and arranging them properly I had time to see what was on my shoe.
"Ah F$^k, just as I expected, poo!"
I knew I said F$^k too loudly because the man in front of me looked back with a frown. I tried to scrape it off on the seat in front of me. It was minimal and mucky so I managed to get most of it off my smooth sandal in one swipe. Lucky enough it was also brownish black, the same color as the bus. Just then the chubby woman with the yellow sari beside me looked at me with a strange look. Its hard to describe. She sort of closed one eye slightly while making her lips paper thin. Then all at once she let her shoulders drop, let her mouth fall open, and did a face like she just ate something sour. I looked down at the poo.
"Sorry," I wobbled, " I just wanted to.."
Before I could finish my sentence she got up and rushed off the bus.
The bus was off again and since the poo had a slight stench to it I took the chance to sit in her chair.
The chairs in some Indian buses are real nice and comfortable. They are made from velvet and and have a nice cushion on the back and bottom.
I plumped down in her seat and took a breath. The bus was now on the main highway towards the bus station and the air was crisp and clean.
I sat daydreaming for a few minutes before I noticed anything.
Then hit me all at once.
"What is that?" I touched my bottom without looking.
"What the!"
I looked down and my ass was stained dark blue. My right leg had a wet stain that went all the way down to my knee. I instinctively smelled my hand.
"That is not..." I smelled it again. "It is!"
It was pee.
The seat was soaked and so were my pants.
The fat woman with the yellow sari had peed the seat - and I had sat in it in my only pair of jeans.
Time: 7:45 PM
Who: Me and a large woman wearing a yellow sari
Why: I was on my way to the bus station
"27 B, 27 B, where is the damn 27 B!"
Every time a bus would stop a cloud of exhaust would fill the dark air. Bus after bus ploughed through the streets.
"Excuse me sir," I yelled while backpack bumping a man. "Do you know where bus 27 B is?"
He wobbled his head left to right three times.
"Yes?"
He wobbled again.
"No?"
One more wobble.
I imitated his wobble with arched eye-brows. He also arched his eye-brows and did a quick wobble.
"27B"
He wobbled again, but this time with emphasis towards the right.
I wobbled a thank you and started walking towards where he directed his wobble.
"Why don't they light these streets!" I said to myself after stepping in something squishy. Before I had time to investigate fully what I had just stepped in 27B pulled up beside me.
I jumped on, fell back, and jumped on again. I felt unbalanced with all the weight on me. I had a bulging blue backpack hanging off my back, a black smaller backpack strapped to my front, and a red bag with books in my right hand.
The bus was packed with people, but just my luck, a man jumped up just as I got on. I threw the heavy backpack of my back into the aisle and managed to squeeze in tightly beside a heavy woman with a yellow sari. The bus pulled off and we were on our way.
After getting my bag in place and taking off my other bags and arranging them properly I had time to see what was on my shoe.
"Ah F$^k, just as I expected, poo!"
I knew I said F$^k too loudly because the man in front of me looked back with a frown. I tried to scrape it off on the seat in front of me. It was minimal and mucky so I managed to get most of it off my smooth sandal in one swipe. Lucky enough it was also brownish black, the same color as the bus. Just then the chubby woman with the yellow sari beside me looked at me with a strange look. Its hard to describe. She sort of closed one eye slightly while making her lips paper thin. Then all at once she let her shoulders drop, let her mouth fall open, and did a face like she just ate something sour. I looked down at the poo.
"Sorry," I wobbled, " I just wanted to.."
Before I could finish my sentence she got up and rushed off the bus.
The bus was off again and since the poo had a slight stench to it I took the chance to sit in her chair.
The chairs in some Indian buses are real nice and comfortable. They are made from velvet and and have a nice cushion on the back and bottom.
I plumped down in her seat and took a breath. The bus was now on the main highway towards the bus station and the air was crisp and clean.
I sat daydreaming for a few minutes before I noticed anything.
Then hit me all at once.
"What is that?" I touched my bottom without looking.
"What the!"
I looked down and my ass was stained dark blue. My right leg had a wet stain that went all the way down to my knee. I instinctively smelled my hand.
"That is not..." I smelled it again. "It is!"
It was pee.
The seat was soaked and so were my pants.
The fat woman with the yellow sari had peed the seat - and I had sat in it in my only pair of jeans.
Fast food in India
McDonald's, KFC, and Subway.
Of all the fast food chains in the world, these are most likely the ones you are going to find in Asia. In Canada I barley touch them - maybe a hang over breaky at MickkyDees or a quick sub before work - but most of the time I find fast food revolting.
Saying that, since I was a child I have been brain-washed by McDonald's advertising so much that when I see those golden arches I actually get a warm feeling in my heart. They knew what they were doing when they directly targeted children with good ole Ronald and the Happy Meal toy. Not only that but sometime I crave a little Westerness in my Indian world, so once in a while I indulge.
I will say this, India knows its fast food! I have visited them all and every experience was great!
McDonald's
Service with a smile is a slogan well known to the McDonald's staff, and soggy french fries is a complain they're quite used to too.
Not in Varanasi, India. Fresh, crisp, golden french fries, fried to perfection. And with an all Chicken or Veg menu you'll find a lot of healthily AND delicious choices.
KFC
I have never been more moved in KFC before. Not only was the chicken 'finger licking good' but the KFC in Kolkata was doing something special. All of the workers were mute. The used sign language to communicate with each other and you could see in their eyes the happiness.
Subway
No stinginess at the Subway in Madras. They loaded the vegetables on my 1.25USD sub of the day. And how could one not be happy with Bob Marley tunes while eating a sub.
I can't say that everyones experience will be as great as mine but if you're ever in India and crave a dose of home with a smile, hit up one of these chains.
Of all the fast food chains in the world, these are most likely the ones you are going to find in Asia. In Canada I barley touch them - maybe a hang over breaky at MickkyDees or a quick sub before work - but most of the time I find fast food revolting.
Saying that, since I was a child I have been brain-washed by McDonald's advertising so much that when I see those golden arches I actually get a warm feeling in my heart. They knew what they were doing when they directly targeted children with good ole Ronald and the Happy Meal toy. Not only that but sometime I crave a little Westerness in my Indian world, so once in a while I indulge.
I will say this, India knows its fast food! I have visited them all and every experience was great!
McDonald's
Service with a smile is a slogan well known to the McDonald's staff, and soggy french fries is a complain they're quite used to too.
Not in Varanasi, India. Fresh, crisp, golden french fries, fried to perfection. And with an all Chicken or Veg menu you'll find a lot of healthily AND delicious choices.
KFC
I have never been more moved in KFC before. Not only was the chicken 'finger licking good' but the KFC in Kolkata was doing something special. All of the workers were mute. The used sign language to communicate with each other and you could see in their eyes the happiness.
Subway
No stinginess at the Subway in Madras. They loaded the vegetables on my 1.25USD sub of the day. And how could one not be happy with Bob Marley tunes while eating a sub.
I can't say that everyones experience will be as great as mine but if you're ever in India and crave a dose of home with a smile, hit up one of these chains.
Kolkata
Oh there are horror stories about this city.
Oh the poverty!
Oh the beggars!
Oh the crime!
Oh the dirt,pollution, taxis!
Oh bugs, drugs, thugs!
Oh....a lot of people are either full of shit, inexperienced, or things have changed.
Kolkata is one of the most amazing cities I have visited in Asia.
The colonial architecture left by the British make for breath taking day trips in the city. People were obviously very fond of marble at the time and you'll find the sun radiating brilliantly off it in the morning, afternoon and at sunset.
The people, though as different as all the Indians in India, seem to have a special charm about them. Besides the three annoying taxi drivers you find waiting at the end of tourist road, the people were happy to guide me, feed me, clothe me and accommodate me - and they did it with a smile!
The sights are too numerous to mention and if you're really interested in going you'll get better information in a book. Not only that but words will not describe the beauty of the palaces and mansions, museums and temples, or cemetery's and back roads. 9/10 of the places wont let you take photos so you wont get a picture either.
And I'll finish this buy saying.....IT IS SO CHEAP!
I mean cheap. In USD, 1.50 for a dorm, .50 cents for an awesome meal, and with the cinema at 1.25 and window shopping and most sights free, you will not be spending much money.
So, next time someone complains about India, send them to me.
Oh the poverty!
Oh the beggars!
Oh the crime!
Oh the dirt,pollution, taxis!
Oh bugs, drugs, thugs!
Oh....a lot of people are either full of shit, inexperienced, or things have changed.
Kolkata is one of the most amazing cities I have visited in Asia.
The colonial architecture left by the British make for breath taking day trips in the city. People were obviously very fond of marble at the time and you'll find the sun radiating brilliantly off it in the morning, afternoon and at sunset.
The people, though as different as all the Indians in India, seem to have a special charm about them. Besides the three annoying taxi drivers you find waiting at the end of tourist road, the people were happy to guide me, feed me, clothe me and accommodate me - and they did it with a smile!
The sights are too numerous to mention and if you're really interested in going you'll get better information in a book. Not only that but words will not describe the beauty of the palaces and mansions, museums and temples, or cemetery's and back roads. 9/10 of the places wont let you take photos so you wont get a picture either.
And I'll finish this buy saying.....IT IS SO CHEAP!
I mean cheap. In USD, 1.50 for a dorm, .50 cents for an awesome meal, and with the cinema at 1.25 and window shopping and most sights free, you will not be spending much money.
So, next time someone complains about India, send them to me.
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