Thursday, September 11, 2008

Desert Treasures and Creepy Camps

Jiayuguan in Gansu is a city on the edge of the desert once marking the border of China's land control. Here the Great Wall ended and beyond was a desolate, savage land. This is where you were sent when prison seemed to lenient of a punishment.

And this is where I went.

Waking up the sky was black. The window was open just a crack and bitter cold air bit at my face. In the distance I could see nothing. I was looking at an solitary abyss called the Gobi.

As the black turned to blue and the blue turned to grey the desert came to life.


Jiayuguan
The Gobi is a sand treasure chest slowly revealing its ancient treasures. It is through this desert that merchants of the old world headed for the mysterious "Middle Kingdom". Beneath the burning particles of rocks and shells are numerous tombs. Once guarding the treasures of the past they now open their world to the future. The walls of the tombs are scratched with pictures of how life used to be lived;


Cook, kill, destroy, conquer, dance, build.


An every lasting cycle that passed on from one century to the next.



While searching this barren land we came across an ancient battle station. The Great Walls last tower, now nothing but a weathered mound of dirt, marked the point for one of the armies great camps.



There was an eerie quietness as we descend into the narrow valley. If you listened carefully you could hear the wind whisper the dark secrets of the camp. A timeworn bridge divided the valley. Rusty and eroded we thought twice before crossing. A sign in Chinese characters read, 'beware of falling!'. Beads of sweat formed on the top of my head as I took the first step. Through the slits I could see the raging river 100 feet below. The wind rocked the bridge and the creaks sent shivers up my spine. After 5 heart racing minutes we finally got across.

We entered near the back where a large wooden structure sat. An ancient noose swung solemnly in the breeze. Weapons of the past were littered around the site along with rickety wagons and broken drums. A sundial speceled with blood was a reminder of how gory life must have been.


The watch tower had an amazing view of the distant mountains, depressed valley, and whole camp. I sat lost in the serenity until I saw them coming.

I only needed to see the vans. I knew exactly who they where. The 'Red Hat Army' are notorious around China. They travel in packs of 20s. Their leader has an outrageously loud microphone enhancing her incredibly boring voice. They care not to feel or understand a sight but prefer run over it in as quick of time as possible. I have yet to understand why they do what they do. Why do they take pictures in front of rocks? Why do they talk so loudly? Why do they insist on making what should be a holiday an all out sprint to see as much as possible?

They invaded quickly. No sooner than they got off the bus were they running across the bridge. Within minutes they had surrounded the camp.

It was time for me to leave.

More pics
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1212583&l=5d9aa&id=506336427

No comments: