Things have changed a lot in Tibet.
A long time ago Tibet, and especially Lhasa, was known as the Forrbidden city. Many people trekked through the worldest highest mountains trying to get to there but died. Then came a time when people went to Tibet and came back raving about the awsome spiritualism, the hospital people, and the beauty of the land. Then, in the 1950s, the Chinese Liberation Army entered Tibet and anyone who has studied anything about Tibetan history will know what happened then. Then came a time when China closed its doors. The world was at war and nobody new what was happening. China opened its doors again people were back into Tibet but something had changed.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Karakuri Lake
The lake
As soon as we got out of the car we were offered accommodation with the local Kyrkies that lived at the edge of the lake. Echo wanted to try her time as a cowgirl so we took a horse ride to the village to check out our new home. The village was extremely simple. I first thought that the feces that were spread out around the village were used for fertilizer. (You've seen what dog urine does to grass, can you imagine what camel pee does!?) but later learned they use it for fire. Grey stone fences surrounded mud made houses. The towns one and only uni bathroom was in the center of the city. It was repulsive The local school kids had tulip stem green eyes and marched around a dirty Chinese flag.
Although the city was interesting and could keep a farmer intrigued for hours Echo and I decided to do some hiking. The climb up was difficult. Together the hardest thing we had ever climbed was the stairs to my flat when the lift was out. But the difficulty of the trek made it so much more gratifying when we reached the top. The yellow valley was speckled with camels and yaks and the bright turquoise lake reflected the cloudless sky with perfection.
At home our family lit a poop fire and give us some sort of stew. They started the entertainment by standing up and pretending to dance but later I understood they just wanted to give their teenage son a chance to get boogie with it with my girlfriend.
Day 2
We reunited with the two women we came up with. They had spent the whole last day driving and were very eager to drive all the way back to the city. On the way we stopped by various mountains with very logical names like Red Mountain and White Mountain. We once stopped at another mountain. After taking pictures of it one of the women asked what it was called. When the driver said it didn’t have a name the women let out a puff of air while angrily asking why we had stopped deleted the picture of her camera.
As soon as we got out of the car we were offered accommodation with the local Kyrkies that lived at the edge of the lake. Echo wanted to try her time as a cowgirl so we took a horse ride to the village to check out our new home. The village was extremely simple. I first thought that the feces that were spread out around the village were used for fertilizer. (You've seen what dog urine does to grass, can you imagine what camel pee does!?) but later learned they use it for fire. Grey stone fences surrounded mud made houses. The towns one and only uni bathroom was in the center of the city. It was repulsive The local school kids had tulip stem green eyes and marched around a dirty Chinese flag.
Although the city was interesting and could keep a farmer intrigued for hours Echo and I decided to do some hiking. The climb up was difficult. Together the hardest thing we had ever climbed was the stairs to my flat when the lift was out. But the difficulty of the trek made it so much more gratifying when we reached the top. The yellow valley was speckled with camels and yaks and the bright turquoise lake reflected the cloudless sky with perfection.
At home our family lit a poop fire and give us some sort of stew. They started the entertainment by standing up and pretending to dance but later I understood they just wanted to give their teenage son a chance to get boogie with it with my girlfriend.
Day 2
We reunited with the two women we came up with. They had spent the whole last day driving and were very eager to drive all the way back to the city. On the way we stopped by various mountains with very logical names like Red Mountain and White Mountain. We once stopped at another mountain. After taking pictures of it one of the women asked what it was called. When the driver said it didn’t have a name the women let out a puff of air while angrily asking why we had stopped deleted the picture of her camera.
Bickering Tuesdays
This is a part of an on going column called Bickering Tuesdays. Since most times I bicker its on a Tuesdays and since a lot of these things happened on Tuesday and because, most convenient, today is a Tuesday.
You can’t!
You know one thing I really hate? When complete strangers tell me I can’t do something. I am so sick of people telling me what or where I could or could not do or go.
Story goes like this
"I’d like to use the Internet please." I said politely.
“You can’t.” Says a boy of 14 years old without looking up from his stupid computer game.
“ Why not?” I asked.
“Because you don’t have a passport.”
So I ride across town to pickup my passport.
“Here’s my passport.” I say forcefully.
“You can’t.” Says the geek again.
“What’d you mean I can’t, here’s my passport, I have my passport!”
“You need a Chinese passport”
At that moment I really wanted to take the nerds head and smash through the computer screen. But I've learned that smacking arrogant Chinese boys is no way to solve any problems. I learned the hard way. See the 899USD smack.
Instead I pulled the cord on his gay Warcraft game.
Take that!
Story 2
I want to go to Karakuri lake
“Foreigner, haha, you cant go! The fat Chinese man said as he rubbed his attended his geeky, cheap glasses.
"Yes I can, my friends just went there." I said matter of factly.
“Nope, you can’t. You have to get a permit from so and so who wont give it to you because you are a FOREIGNER!”
"Listen you little..." My face started to go red. Before I said another word my girlfriend grabbed my arm and gave me that, 'don't' look.
"My friend just went, I can go, and I'm going to go. With or without you." I said and left the room. Nothing bugs me more than knowitalls who don't know jack$&!#
Story 3
“You can’t stay at the lake with the local people, foreigners aren’t allowed” Says the peasant driver.
“Yes I can, I know a guy who just did it”
“Nope, I know you can’t.
I've learned that this area is full of knowitalls why just don't know. So I sit back, and patiently wait for the time I can make this idiot lose face in front of all the passengers.
Moral of the story
I'm not a bad person and I think I can talk with any reasonable person. What made me so angry in all of these situations was the manner of the people, and their tone of voice.
Not only did I get on the Internet just down the street from that shop, but I also got to the lake and stayed with the local people. There are so many people with their heads up there you know what or filled with so much high esteem that you need to really be firm.
Take it from me. Almost anything can be done in China. You just need to talk to the right person and stay away from the people who tell you you can’t.
You can’t!
You know one thing I really hate? When complete strangers tell me I can’t do something. I am so sick of people telling me what or where I could or could not do or go.
Story goes like this
"I’d like to use the Internet please." I said politely.
“You can’t.” Says a boy of 14 years old without looking up from his stupid computer game.
“ Why not?” I asked.
“Because you don’t have a passport.”
So I ride across town to pickup my passport.
“Here’s my passport.” I say forcefully.
“You can’t.” Says the geek again.
“What’d you mean I can’t, here’s my passport, I have my passport!”
“You need a Chinese passport”
At that moment I really wanted to take the nerds head and smash through the computer screen. But I've learned that smacking arrogant Chinese boys is no way to solve any problems. I learned the hard way. See the 899USD smack.
Instead I pulled the cord on his gay Warcraft game.
Take that!
Story 2
I want to go to Karakuri lake
“Foreigner, haha, you cant go! The fat Chinese man said as he rubbed his attended his geeky, cheap glasses.
"Yes I can, my friends just went there." I said matter of factly.
“Nope, you can’t. You have to get a permit from so and so who wont give it to you because you are a FOREIGNER!”
"Listen you little..." My face started to go red. Before I said another word my girlfriend grabbed my arm and gave me that, 'don't' look.
"My friend just went, I can go, and I'm going to go. With or without you." I said and left the room. Nothing bugs me more than knowitalls who don't know jack$&!#
Story 3
“You can’t stay at the lake with the local people, foreigners aren’t allowed” Says the peasant driver.
“Yes I can, I know a guy who just did it”
“Nope, I know you can’t.
I've learned that this area is full of knowitalls why just don't know. So I sit back, and patiently wait for the time I can make this idiot lose face in front of all the passengers.
Moral of the story
I'm not a bad person and I think I can talk with any reasonable person. What made me so angry in all of these situations was the manner of the people, and their tone of voice.
Not only did I get on the Internet just down the street from that shop, but I also got to the lake and stayed with the local people. There are so many people with their heads up there you know what or filled with so much high esteem that you need to really be firm.
Take it from me. Almost anything can be done in China. You just need to talk to the right person and stay away from the people who tell you you can’t.
Kurks in Kashgar (Kashi)
We went to Kashgar for the famous Sunday Market. Apparently this market is known all over Central Asia. It was definitely popular.
There were thousands of men selling camels in the North. Thousands of women were buying scarves in the South. Hundreds of kids were bartering for cassettes in the West. And, to tell you the truth, there wasn’t much going on in the East.
Animal Farm
The Animal market was full of drably dressed men with big white beards. They came to sell their goats, horses, cows, and camels. A camel goes for around 800USD while a cow can go for as little as 650USD. I couldn’t figure how much a goat cost but it seemed that there were a number of things that were important.
1) Weight
Bulky peasants with bulging muscles would bear-hug goats.
2) Bum
Smaller peasants with frail arms would smack the bum or poke the anus with a stick
3) Teeth
Strange peasants with some sort of teeth fetish would open mouths and examine gums.
I can’t say that I personally wasn’t perplexed a lot of the time I was at the animal market. No one could, or they could and they wouldn't, speak Chinese. This apparent part of China is about as far from the capital as you can get, and from the recent bombings and murders of Chinese police men, we can assume they prefer it this way.
Ladies Market
The scarves, pot, and hat market was a colorful sight. I have been very impressed with the beauty and style of the XinJiang women and the market felt like a big event. Women here dressed to the 10’s with glittery dresses, exquisite silk headscarves, and make-up which I have never seen before. The people here see the uni-brow and smile.
"Oh how beautiful your babies uni-brow is."
"Oh now, Zanzibar, I notice your babies uni-brow is getting thicker and thicker by the day." (I imagine) They say to each other
Almost all babies and a lot of women have a line drawn between their eyebrows to join them. I never understood why. It was really hard getting anything out of the people. But, I did manage to talk to one.
Super Muslim
Us in multi-cultural cities may have came across the odd woman with a headscarf. Those of us who have been to a Muslim country may have seen the women who cover their faces and you can only see their eyes. And I'm not sure how many people have seen these zealous women who cover their faces completely. When I asked a man about this he told me only the best and most faithful Muslim woman practice this custom. When I asked about his wife he said she also did this. When I asked what he thought about women who didn't do this, he responded with a pinkie finger.
The pinkie finger means bad...very bad.
Old goods are good goods.
Some must think that old cassettes, vehicles, and clothing styles just go to the trash. We’ll those people are wrong. Here all these are the in things! The ancient music would blast out of ancient radios while hip kids in ancient clothes sat on the curbs and ‘chilled’.
There were thousands of men selling camels in the North. Thousands of women were buying scarves in the South. Hundreds of kids were bartering for cassettes in the West. And, to tell you the truth, there wasn’t much going on in the East.
Animal Farm
The Animal market was full of drably dressed men with big white beards. They came to sell their goats, horses, cows, and camels. A camel goes for around 800USD while a cow can go for as little as 650USD. I couldn’t figure how much a goat cost but it seemed that there were a number of things that were important.
1) Weight
Bulky peasants with bulging muscles would bear-hug goats.
2) Bum
Smaller peasants with frail arms would smack the bum or poke the anus with a stick
3) Teeth
Strange peasants with some sort of teeth fetish would open mouths and examine gums.
I can’t say that I personally wasn’t perplexed a lot of the time I was at the animal market. No one could, or they could and they wouldn't, speak Chinese. This apparent part of China is about as far from the capital as you can get, and from the recent bombings and murders of Chinese police men, we can assume they prefer it this way.
Ladies Market
The scarves, pot, and hat market was a colorful sight. I have been very impressed with the beauty and style of the XinJiang women and the market felt like a big event. Women here dressed to the 10’s with glittery dresses, exquisite silk headscarves, and make-up which I have never seen before. The people here see the uni-brow and smile.
"Oh how beautiful your babies uni-brow is."
"Oh now, Zanzibar, I notice your babies uni-brow is getting thicker and thicker by the day." (I imagine) They say to each other
Almost all babies and a lot of women have a line drawn between their eyebrows to join them. I never understood why. It was really hard getting anything out of the people. But, I did manage to talk to one.
Super Muslim
Us in multi-cultural cities may have came across the odd woman with a headscarf. Those of us who have been to a Muslim country may have seen the women who cover their faces and you can only see their eyes. And I'm not sure how many people have seen these zealous women who cover their faces completely. When I asked a man about this he told me only the best and most faithful Muslim woman practice this custom. When I asked about his wife he said she also did this. When I asked what he thought about women who didn't do this, he responded with a pinkie finger.
The pinkie finger means bad...very bad.
Old goods are good goods.
Some must think that old cassettes, vehicles, and clothing styles just go to the trash. We’ll those people are wrong. Here all these are the in things! The ancient music would blast out of ancient radios while hip kids in ancient clothes sat on the curbs and ‘chilled’.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
A whole new world, don't you dare close your eyes!
I picked up Echo at the airport in Urumqi, the capital of Xinjiang, and headed to a city that is well known all over Central Asia.
I’ve heard a lot of different reports about the city.
“The pollution is bloody terrible!” Spat a spirtual Spanish woman.
“The traffic is insane man!” Stated a stoned Canadian.
“There are Prozies everywhere!" Said a Slovenian sex tourist.
To sum things up, this could be any city in China. I had found an awesome hostel called Maitown right in the center of town. Bringing the girlfriend met I had to bring things up a little bit. Although I found my 30 RMB dorm cosy and comfortable I decided to move us to a 170RMB single to add a little romance.
Urumqi is a city with a lot of flavor. The markets are intense and there is no shortage of goats, silk worms, or fish (Ironic since there is no city further away from the ocean.).
Besides eating, buying knock off North Face clothese (which is a total waste of time because its 10 times cheaper in Lhasa) and maybe climbing Red Mountain there isn’t much else to do.
So we left.
I’ve heard a lot of different reports about the city.
“The pollution is bloody terrible!” Spat a spirtual Spanish woman.
“The traffic is insane man!” Stated a stoned Canadian.
“There are Prozies everywhere!" Said a Slovenian sex tourist.
To sum things up, this could be any city in China. I had found an awesome hostel called Maitown right in the center of town. Bringing the girlfriend met I had to bring things up a little bit. Although I found my 30 RMB dorm cosy and comfortable I decided to move us to a 170RMB single to add a little romance.
Urumqi is a city with a lot of flavor. The markets are intense and there is no shortage of goats, silk worms, or fish (Ironic since there is no city further away from the ocean.).
Besides eating, buying knock off North Face clothese (which is a total waste of time because its 10 times cheaper in Lhasa) and maybe climbing Red Mountain there isn’t much else to do.
So we left.
Grape Country
Have you ever been to a vineyard?
Have you ever been to a Muslim City?
Have you ever been to a city that was ravened by Kabul Khan?
While if your interested in this kind of stuff head to Turpan, XinJiang.
After I got off the bus some friendly Muslims eating grapes directed me to my guesthouse. The road road I took was shaded with arches supporting thousands of grape vines. Above you could see bunches of Sprite green grapes hanging lazily from the branches. The people sat on benches eating grapes and chatting. Children rode by me on these new kind of skateboards throwing grapes at eachother. Men on bicycles road past selling, you guessed it, grapes.
I bought 1 kilo for 25 cents. And let me tell you, those grapes were the cheapest and most regular grapes I've ever had the chance to get my hands on.
Although I love grapes I super love bread. And in XinJiang there is bread on every corner. They make it in a little disc shape in small little round ovens. They are amazing when they are hot. Not only do they have bread but they have yellow carrots, white apples, and this yellow thing with purple veins on it that tastes like a mix of rhubarb and melon.
Have you ever been to a Muslim City?
Have you ever been to a city that was ravened by Kabul Khan?
While if your interested in this kind of stuff head to Turpan, XinJiang.
After I got off the bus some friendly Muslims eating grapes directed me to my guesthouse. The road road I took was shaded with arches supporting thousands of grape vines. Above you could see bunches of Sprite green grapes hanging lazily from the branches. The people sat on benches eating grapes and chatting. Children rode by me on these new kind of skateboards throwing grapes at eachother. Men on bicycles road past selling, you guessed it, grapes.
I bought 1 kilo for 25 cents. And let me tell you, those grapes were the cheapest and most regular grapes I've ever had the chance to get my hands on.
Although I love grapes I super love bread. And in XinJiang there is bread on every corner. They make it in a little disc shape in small little round ovens. They are amazing when they are hot. Not only do they have bread but they have yellow carrots, white apples, and this yellow thing with purple veins on it that tastes like a mix of rhubarb and melon.
The markets are the best. They are loaded with raisins, nuts, and sweets. The aroma of the spices leaves you crying or craving curry. But of everything, it was the people that kept me coming back. Every woman I saw was wearing something sparkly. Their dresses were of all colors of the rainbow and were always worn with style. They resembled something like gypsies from the medieval time. The men wore colorful skullcaps or diamond hats and had the most amazing white straight or black puffy beards. They had these turquoise green, auburn or chestnut brown, beautiful eyes. I would stare at them with admiration and wonder. And they would stare at me. I think its not every day they see a blond hair, blue eyed, orange bearded man. 
The sky was azure blue every morning. I would wake up and bike ride down to the river for a splash, then head to the orchards to get some grapes. The ancient villages had all been destroyed in the past and left it all to your imagination of what once was.
But once was is no more, and what is now will be no more tomorrow. So I will say, Turpan today is one of my favorite places in China.
The sky was azure blue every morning. I would wake up and bike ride down to the river for a splash, then head to the orchards to get some grapes. The ancient villages had all been destroyed in the past and left it all to your imagination of what once was.
But once was is no more, and what is now will be no more tomorrow. So I will say, Turpan today is one of my favorite places in China.
The New Frontier
XinJiang (Shinjang)
Xinjiang, in Kyle's English, means the New Frontier. There are no better words to describe this place. I knew of the people of Xinjiang from every city I've lived in China. They look like foreigners, they sell noodles or shishkabobs, and one time a group of three of them tried (unsuccsessfully) to steal from me. They have this sly look to them. The men almost all wear skullcaps and the women wear head scarves. They are Muslim.
This is what I knew, and this is what I saw.
I got off the train in the first city of interest in the far east of the province. I was mentally armed. I got off the train and stubbornly walked straight towards the bus station determined not to be ripped off by the sly men that live in this place.
"Turpan, Turpan, you go to Turpan?" A short man with a white skullcap shouted behind me.
I kept walking, ingnoring his calls and thinking, 'this guy isint going to get the best of me'.
"10 Yuan, 10 Yuan," He persisted.
'Not getting me' I thought.
15 minutes later I arrived at the bus station and the man toldmr I just missed the bus and would have to wait 40 minutes for the next one. I hauled my bags and lined up to buy a ticket.
"That'll be 8.7 RMB"
One strike for me.
Xinjiang, in Kyle's English, means the New Frontier. There are no better words to describe this place. I knew of the people of Xinjiang from every city I've lived in China. They look like foreigners, they sell noodles or shishkabobs, and one time a group of three of them tried (unsuccsessfully) to steal from me. They have this sly look to them. The men almost all wear skullcaps and the women wear head scarves. They are Muslim.
This is what I knew, and this is what I saw.
I got off the train in the first city of interest in the far east of the province. I was mentally armed. I got off the train and stubbornly walked straight towards the bus station determined not to be ripped off by the sly men that live in this place.
"Turpan, Turpan, you go to Turpan?" A short man with a white skullcap shouted behind me.
I kept walking, ingnoring his calls and thinking, 'this guy isint going to get the best of me'.
"10 Yuan, 10 Yuan," He persisted.
'Not getting me' I thought.
15 minutes later I arrived at the bus station and the man toldmr I just missed the bus and would have to wait 40 minutes for the next one. I hauled my bags and lined up to buy a ticket.
"That'll be 8.7 RMB"
One strike for me.
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